A GRACEFUL BEGINNING: THE JOURNEY OF THE BERGAMOT NOTE IN PERFUMES
In my first article, we examined the caramel note. If gourmand notes and scents are exactly your thing, you might want to check that out as well. Now, let’s move on to the bergamot note, which is frequently used in perfumes.
Bergamot, which has become the signature of freshness, elegance, and sophistication in perfumes, is a component that draws attention both scientifically and artistically. This precious note, derived from the Citrus bergamia plant, stands out not only because of its chemical composition but also due to its unique role in the perfume world. In this article, we will first look at the chemical structure of bergamot from a scientific perspective, and then examine how it is used in perfume design along with some notable examples.
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE OF BERGAMOT OIL 🍋
Bergamot oil is a volatile oil obtained by cold pressing the peel of the Citrus bergamia fruit, which belongs to the citrus family. The components behind its aromatic profile are quite rich, and this chemical diversity is what sets it apart from other citrus oils.
The main chemical components are:
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Limonene (30-40%): The cornerstone of the fresh and citrus-like scent. It also has antioxidant properties.
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Linalyl Acetate (15-30%): Reveals bergamot's sweet and slightly floral aspect. Known for its calming effect.
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Linalool (5-15%): A terpene alcohol with antimicrobial and aromatherapeutic effects.
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γ-Terpinene, β-Pinene, and Sabinene: Add complexity to the perfume and create a fresh-woody atmosphere.
Phototoxicity Risk:
Furanocoumarins like bergapten, naturally found in bergamot oil, can cause sensitivity to UV light on the skin. Therefore, phototoxicity-free "bergapten-free (BPF)" versions are preferred in cosmetic formulations.
1. RAW MATERIAL: Citrus Bergamia 🍀
The bergamot fruit belongs to the citrus family and is primarily cultivated in the Calabria region of Italy. The region's unique microclimate produces the highest quality bergamot in the world. The fruit is typically harvested between November and February.
2. OIL EXTRACTION METHOD: COLD PRESSING 🍸
The most common and preferred method is cold press extraction (a mechanical pressing technique). Thanks to this method:
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No heat is used, which prevents the degradation of volatile compounds.
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A natural and pure essential oil is obtained.
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The raw materials are preserved at perfumery-grade quality.
STEPS:
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The fruit is washed and its peel is separated.
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The peels are crushed using special mechanical pressing machines.
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A mixture of oil and water is obtained.
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This mixture is separated using centrifugation.
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The final result is 100% pure bergamot essential oil.
THE ROLE OF BERGAMOT IN PERFUMES ♠
Thanks to the vibrant compounds in its chemical structure, bergamot is indispensable in the top notes of perfumes. With its fresh, energetic, slightly bitter, and transparent character, it provides a perfect opening for both women's and men's fragrances. Its high compatibility with other notes also makes it a frequent choice in both classic and modern perfume compositions.
What does bergamot do in the world of perfumery?
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It provides an energetic and sophisticated opening in the top notes.
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It balances heavy or sweet notes in the composition.
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It appears in both unisex and exclusive collection fragrances.
ICONIC PERFUMES WITH BERGAMOT NOTES: NOTES, FEELINGS, AND COMPOSITIONS
Now, let’s move on to the most enjoyable part ☺ Perfumes that feature bergamot notes not only offer freshness, but also embody refinement, elegance, and a sophisticated character. Below, let’s take a look at some standout examples from both designer and niche perfumes, along with their olfactory structures and the emotions they evoke.
1. DIOR – EAU SAUVAGE (1966) ♦
Perfumer: Edmond Roudnitska
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Rosemary
- Heart: Lavender, Basil, Jasmine
- Base: Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk
Eau Sauvage is considered a turning point in the history of perfumery. The refreshing opening of bergamot, when blended with lavender and herbal notes, creates an effect that is both elegant and masculine. The base notes of vetiver and oakmoss lend the fragrance a serious and mature character. This perfume represents controlled confidence and refined taste.
What it evokes: Clean, classy, and timeless. Like a white shirt, it fits every era and style.
2. ACQUA DI PARMA – COLONIA (1916) ♢
Perfumer: Luigi Bormioli (developed by the brand's founders)
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange
- Heart: Lavender, Rose, Verbena
- Base: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli
Colonia is like an olfactory representation of Italian elegance. Here, the bergamot feels incredibly natural—fresh and vibrant, almost like the zest of a freshly peeled fruit. Balanced with floral and herbal notes, it offers a delicate yet confident fragrance profile.
What it evokes: Simple yet noble. Ideal for someone who appreciates daytime elegance and pays attention to detail.
3. CREED – AVENTUS (2010) ❤
Perfumers: Olivier Creed & Erwin Creed
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Pineapple, Apple, Blackcurrant
- Heart: Birch, Rose, Jasmine
- Base: Oakmoss, Musk, Vanilla, Ambergris
Aventus is my favorite men's fragrance. I think it smells amazing on the opposite sex—and I sometimes wear it myself and can't stop sniffing it! Even though it’s very well-known, I absolutely love its scent. That said, it’s important to buy from reliable sources, as there are many fakes on the market. The bright opening with bergamot merges with the tropical character of pineapple to create a vibrant, energetic vibe. The birch in the heart notes brings a leathery, charismatic tone that dominates the fragrance.
What it evokes: Strong, bold, and striking. Perfect for someone who wants to command the stage. It’s my personal favorite too ✨
4. LE LABO – BERGAMOTE 22 (2006)
Perfumer: Daphne Bugey
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Petitgrain
- Heart: Musk, Vetiver, Orange Blossom
- Base: Cedarwood, Amber, Musk
This iconic scent from Le Labo offers a minimalist yet striking interpretation of citrus. The bergamot opens dry and almost metallic, then softens into a balance of floral and woody notes.
What it evokes: Elegant, free, and modern. Simple, yet leaves an unforgettable impression.
5. NISHANE – HACIVAT (2017)
Perfumer: Jorge Lee
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Pineapple, Grapefruit
- Heart: Patchouli, Cedarwood, Jasmine
- Base: Oakmoss, Woody Notes, Musk
Hacivat offers a modern take on the classic chypre structure. The bergamot-dominant opening is green and fresh, but as the scent evolves into the base, it becomes deeper and takes on a theatrical character. The transitions between notes are sharp and striking.
What it evokes: Elegant yet powerful, intellectual yet attention-grabbing. Its longevity and sillage are both impressively strong.
6. MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN – AQUA UNIVERSALIS (2009)
Perfumer: Francis Kurkdjian
Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Lemon
- Heart: Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom
- Base: Soft Musk, White Flowers
Aqua Universalis is a fragrance that redefines the concept of "clean" in perfumery. Here, bergamot has a soapy, pure character. With a vibe reminiscent of freshly washed laundry, it’s ideal for both personal use and layering.
What it evokes: Cleanliness, simplicity, and grace. Perfect for the urban soul in search of inner peace.
As seen in these examples, bergamot is not merely a top note—it’s a foundational element that often defines the soul of a fragrance. In designer perfumes, it tends to be presented in a more classic and accessible form, while in niche creations, it takes on more experimental and distinctive interpretations. Its chemical richness and olfactory versatility make it one of the most essential notes in the art of perfumery.
Thank you for reading my article ✨
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